Lawn Care FAQ's
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- Traditional Lawn Care
- Lawn Mowing
- Soil Analysis
- Compost Topdressing
- Lawn Aeration and Seeding
- General Office FAQ's
- 1. When can I mow my lawn following a lawn care application?
It is best to wait 24 hours before mowing your lawn.
- 2. Should I water my lawn immediately following a lawn care application?
No, please allow at least 2 hours for the weed control products to work before watering. As for the fertilizer it is best if your lawn receives water from irrigation or rainfall within 14 days from a treatment.
- 3. When can I walk on my lawn following a lawn care application?
Please allow 2 hours for the weed control products to dry.
- 4. Is my lawn safe for my pets immediately following a lawn care application?
Please allow 2 hours for the weed control products to dry before pets return to the lawn. As a courtesy, our technicians will announce when they arrive and allow some time for your pets to be in the lawn before they begin the treatment.
- 5. How long does it take for weeds that are present at the time of an application to die?
During cooler weather conditions it may take up to two weeks and during the summer it may only be a couple of hours.
- 6. What happens if I get weeds in between lawn care applications?
We provide free service calls for customers that take our complete 6-treatment lawn care program. Simply call our office at (618) 233-7600 or send us an email to our Contact Form and we will schedule a technician to revisit your lawn and spray any weeds present.
- 7. Do you blow off excess fertilizer from sidewalks, patios, driveways and streets?
Yes, as a courtesy to you and to avoid tracking fertilizer in your home we always blow off excess fertilizer from sidewalks, patios, driveways and streets.
- 8. Do you apply fertilizer during the summer months?
For cool season grass varieties such as bluegrass and fescue the answer would be no, as fertilizing during the summer months can cause lawn diseases and can stress or burn a lawn. During the summer months, we apply weed control products (herbicides), fungicides, insecticides and organic type products which are safe during the summer months. As for warm season grass varieties such as zoysia or bermuda grass, it is just the opposite where it is best to apply fertilizer during the summer months and not during the months when the grass is dormant.
- 9. What is pre-emergent?
Pre-emergent controls annual weeds, such as crabgrass from germinating. This chemical barrier controls up to 90% of all weed seeds from germinating. This treatment is done typically in March and early April.
- 10. When is it too late to apply the pre-emergent application?
Annual weed seeds such as crabgrass will begin to germinate when the ground temperature reaches 55 degrees for at least 5 or more days in a row. Typically, this occurs in our area around the 2nd week in April. We monitor the ground temperatures very closely in the spring and when the temperatures reach 55 degrees we switch to a post-emergent treatment for control of annual weeds.
- 11. What can be done if I miss the pre-emergent application?
Depending on the time of the year, we will either control annual weeds with a post-emergent herbicide or control the weeds in their post state after they have emerged.
- 12. What are better, liquid treatments or granular treatments?
Provided that the liquid product is mixed and agitated well per manufacturer recommendations or the granular product is applied at the correct lbs per 1k sq-ft, both are effective and can provide the same results. At TurfGator we have the capabilities to provide both liquid or granular treatments and our technicians will make the best choice in the type of treatment based on your lawns size, terrain and the needs of your lawn at the time of service.
- 13. How often do you come out for lawn care applications?
Our program is a complete 7-step lawn care program running from early March through early December. After the first application is applied, you can expect the next treatments to be scheduled approximately every 4 - 6 weeks.
- 14. Why are multiple applications required to control weeds?
Most weeds within a lawn are characterized as broadleaf weeds and pre-emergent herbicides do not control these types of weeds. Broadleaf weeds germinate at different times during the year and our complete 7-step lawn care program effectively controls these weeds as they germinate and as they are actively growing.
- 15. What is that light colored grass that grows twice as fast and tall as the rest of my lawn?
The proper name is Yellow Nutsedge, but it is also referred to by many homeowners as water grass or nut grass. Yellow Nutsedge is easily identified with its distinctive triangular shaped stem and v-shaped leaves. The leaves also have a waxy covering.
- 16. Why does my lawn continually get yellow nutsedge every year?
Yellow Nutsedge typically grows in areas that are poorly drained and likes full sunshine. Yellow Nutsedge can be very difficult to completely eradicate. Most products on the market are labeled to only control, manage, restrain or suppress nutsedge by putting it into stress and stopping its growth for the particular growing season and there are no pre-emergent products that can prevent it from germinating. With recent advancements in post-emergent herbicides there now is a product labeled for eradication of Yellow Nutsedge. To discuss your options, please call our office at (618) 233-7600.
- 17. I heard that you are never supposed to pull nutsedge by hand, why?
Yellow Nutsedge has a fibrous root system that develops underground rhizomes with multiple tubers or nutlets at the end of each rhizomes. Each tuber has the ability to produce a new plant, and it is impossible to pull nutsedge out of the ground with its complete root system. Therefore, in pulling the plant out of the ground the root system breaks and each tuber will produce a new plant. It is common for every one plant pulled by hand, another 10 more could sprout up and grow back.
- 18. How can I tell if my lawn is dead or just dormant in the hot summer months?
If the grass plant just turns brown, but is still standing, it is more than likely just dormant. Minimize foot traffic on dormant areas as this will further stress the grass plant. If the grass plant is brown and is also lying flat to the ground, then it is dead and time to consider seeding during the fall.
- 19. When is the best time of the day to water my lawn with a sprinkler system?
Early morning is the best as evaporation will be less than in the afternoon. Evening watering is discouraged as it can lead to lawn diseases. The 150 rule is when day temperatures and humidity added together equal 150, which is a rule of thumb that your lawn is most susceptible to lawn diseases and water on the grass plant overnight from a sprinkler system acts like a catalyst to start a disease. The summer of 2010 had a tremendous amount of rain storms that happened during the evening followed by high day temperatures and humidity, resulting in the highest amount of observed lawn diseases throughout the area in many years.
- 20. Why do I always get weeds along edges such as sidewalks, driveways and streets?
The pre-emergent barrier applied to your lawn in early spring is typically broken due to weed eaters and edgers. Also weeds need sunlight to germinate and again weed eaters and edgers expose bare dirt allowing weeds to grow. In addition, concrete tends to heat the soil along edges to warmer temperatures, compared to the rest of the lawn, which is ideal conditions for certain weeds to germinate and begin growing.
- 21. What can I do to get rid of mushrooms?
Sorry, no products available here so your only option is leaving them, stepping on them or mowing them over. If your son likes to play golf like mine, send him out with a 7 iron and tee them up. Mushrooms are unsightly, but also a good sign. Mushrooms need organic soil to grow, among other things, so having mushrooms within the lawn is an easy way to tell if the lawn has good organic matter.
- 22. Are weeds within my landscape bed areas included in my lawn care program?
- 23. Are your products safe for pets?
- 24. What is thatch and what is an acceptable amount to have in a lawn?
Thatch is the grass plant's roots growing above ground level and an acceptable amount is ½ inch or less. If you mow your lawn and return the clippings to the lawn which is preferred those clippings will collect in the thatch layer but will decompose and most research has determined that clippings don't contribute to an excess thatch layer. The problem with thatch is if it gets too thick it can prevent water from soaking into the ground and prevent sufficient oxygen for the root system to grow. When thatch levels exceed ½ inch, we recommend aerating your lawn as it provides more benefits and is less destructive than a dethatcher.
- 1. How often should a lawn be mowed?
A lawn should be cut often enough as to not remove more than 1/3 of the grass plant in a given cut. This may be as often as every 4 days during a growing cycle and every other week during the hot summer months.
- 2. How often do you sharpen your mower blades?
Mower blades are made from a soft grade steel for safety reasons so they only dent and not shatter if they should encounter a hard object such as a rock while mowing. The downside of this is they become dull very quick and require sharpening every 8 – 10 hours of actual cutting time.
- 3. Should the clippings be collected or returned to the lawn?
Grass clippings are 80% water and return nutrients back to the soil as they decompose so it is best not to collect them and just leave them in your lawn. The only exception is excessive clippings that lay on top should be collected, but if your lawn is being cut often enough this should not be an issue. Recent research has ruled that clippings do not cause thatch and they do not spread lawn diseases. Also, not collecting clippings is a responsible environmental practice as well since landscape waste account for almost 20% of all curbside waste.
- 4. Will you collect grass clippings if requested?
Yes, we always try to comply with customer special requests.
- 5. At what height do you cut the grass?
Some homeowners and commercial property managers have height specifications during the year which we will follow as directed. If there are none and it is left to our discretion, then we will cut at a height that is beneficial to the type of grass variety growing on your property. In our local area the 4 most common grass types are varieties are Tall Fescue, Bluegrass, Bermudagrass and Zoysia grass. In general, with the types of grass varieties in our area, setting a mower to cut at 3 – 3½ inches is the ideal height.
- 6. Why is it recommended to leave the grass so tall?
The grass plant needs to get high enough to allow photosynthesis and cutting to low can actually stress and kill the root system of the plant. There are great benefits of cutting the grass at the recommended height. First, the root systems are generally proportional to the height of the grass above the ground, therefore the higher the grass is typically cut, the deeper your roots grow which help for drought resistance and the available nutrients found in the soil. Another benefit is that weeds need sunlight to grow and higher grass blades will shade the ground, helping to prevent weeds from germinating, this is another natural cultural practice in maintaining a beautiful lawn.
- 7. How do commercial mowers cut a lawn so fast and look great and I can only get a good cut with my push mower at a slow speed?
Commercial mower decks are designed for higher speeds and the blades rotate at higher speeds creating a vacuum effect to stand the blades tall prior to being cut. Traditional push mowers do not have the same deck designs and cannot create such a vacuum that by pushing the mower faster can result in a poor looking cut.
- 8. How do you put stripes in a yard?
The stripping look is how the sun reflects off of the grass blades giving a difference of appearance, meaning the blades are laying away or toward you as you look over a lawn. Basically by mowing in one direction and then the next row going back the other way will create this appearance.
- 9. I am needing someone to cut our lawn while we are on vacation for a few weeks. Can I get lawn mowing services for a temporary time frame or do I have to have yearlong service contract?
We will gladly provide our lawn mowing services for our current lawn care customers while you on vacation. You do not have to have mowing services for the entire year. In addition, we will mail you an invoice instead of leaving it at the door so we don't signal thieves or vandals that no one is home.
- 10. I have a gate in my backyard, which is too small for a commercial mower?
We have various sizes of mowers, including a push mower for gated backyards where a larger commercial mower will not fit.
- 11. How will I be billed?
After each service is performed, a detailed invoice will be provided, explaining the service that was performed with a remit slip for making a payment.
- 12. Is payment due after each mowing or after each month?
Typically, all invoices are due in 30 days from receipt, however, most lawn mowing customers will accumulate invoices and pay once per month either by individual invoice or with the monthly statement.
- 13. Can I pay my bill through the website?
- 14. Do you accept credit cards?
We accept the following major credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, or Discover.
- 1. Why should I have my soil tested?
Your lawn will look its best when it has the proper combination of nutrients, texture, organic matter and a proper pH level. Without this proper balance deficiency will show in your lawns color, inability to germinate seed and amount of potential weeds throughout your lawn. Testing your soil quickly determines deficiencies and with proper corrective actions you can have a great looking healthy lawn.
- 2. How often should I have my soil tested?
If soil conditions are good, testing your soil every 3 – 5 years is sufficient. However, if a deficiency is found it is our recommendation to test your soil once a year making recommended corrective actions every year until your soil tests good.
- 3. Do you test the soil or use an independent soil testing company?
At TurfGator, we use an independent soil testing company and will provide you with a complete analysis report of the findings along with recommendations of corrective actions.
- 4. Will I get a copy of the test results?
Yes, we always provide the test results to you.
- 5. When is the best time of the year for a soil analysis?
You can actually test the soil at any time, but for consistent results if you are having issues it is best to test at the same time of the year every year until conditions improve. To avoid misleading test results we generally wait 4 – 6 weeks after a previous lawn care treatment.
- 6. When is the best time of the year to make corrections to the soil based on a soil analysis?
It is dependent on what type of corrective actions that are needed. As for pH issues, limestone can be added at any time of the year, but sulfur can burn the lawn in the heat of the summer and is best to wait until fall or spring. Corrective actions in nutrients can be done at any time as well as adding organic matter.
- 7. What is the difference between fertilizer and soil amendments?
Fertilizers directly affect plant growth by adding nutrients to the soil, while soil amendments indirectly affect plant growth by improving the soil's physical properties.
- 8. How important are soil conditions on the appearance of my lawn?
Soil conditions are very important and often overlooked by many. We treat thousands of lawns in the local area and the difference in appearance from one lawn to the next is generally one of three things, soil conditions, watering practices and cultural practices.
- 9. I have clay soil conditions, should I apply limestone to my lawn every year?
No, just because you have clay soil does not mean your soil is acidic. We have tested hundreds of lawns throughout the area and it is a 50/50 shot of the soil being acidic. If your soil is indeed alkaline and you add limestone unknowingly you will cause the conditions to get worse. Also, if you know for sure your soil is acidic you still don't know how many pounds per thousand sq-ft of limestone to apply. It is best to have a soil analysis done before attempting any corrective actions.
- 10. What is the proper pH level for soil?
The pH scale is from 0 – 14 with 7.0 being neutral. Below 7.0 is considered acidic and above is considered alkaline conditions. The pH should be slightly acidic between 6.5-6.8 for ideal soil conditions. To raise or lower the pH level, a soil test is required to determine necessary amounts of additives such as limestone or sulfur.
- 1. How effective are you at eliminating moles?
The product we use is the only mole bait registered with the EPA and has been proven effective in laboratory results on captured moles. In addition to the products used, the procedures in which we bait have been very effective in eliminating moles.
- 2. Are there any concerns with pets while trying to exterminate a mole?
Yes, the bait that we use contains a lethal dose of Bromethalin which can be poisonous to any pet that would dig up the bait and eat it. If you have any animals that like to dig, we do not recommend using our mole control program.
- 3. Why am I getting moles when I get a grub control treatment every year?
Moles have two primary food sources both white grubs and earthworms. If your lawn is plentiful with earthworms you still may get moles. However, many customers have had great success in not getting moles by reducing their food source in half with a grub control treatment.
- 4. I had a mole running through my landscaping and now my plants are dying, I thought moles are carnivorous?
Moles can indirectly kill plants by scraping away the dirt from a plants root system in search for grubs and earthworms. In addition, voles often travel through mole tunnels and will eat at a plants root system and bulbs.
- 5. When during the day are moles most active?
Research has shown that moles spend their time in four hour shifts of searching for food and then sleeping. They are also more active during quiet times of the day such as early morning or late evening. Moles will also stop digging when they feel vibrations in the ground and older moles are keen enough to pick up on the vibrations from a pet walking through a lawn.
- 6. Do moles live with other moles?
Moles are very territorial and do not allow another mole to infringe upon their territory. The only exception for this is during the mating season which is between February and April. In addition, scientist have proved that on occasion some tunnel runs are communal runs where several moles may use a particular tunnel and then branch off to their territorial runs.
- 7. How often do moles breed and how large are their litters?
Female moles will give birth once per year and have a litter of 2 to 6 baby pups.
- 1. Is it a good practice to add lime to my yard every year?
No, adding any amendment on a routine basis is not a recommended practice. Prior to adding any amendment, it is our recommendation to have a soil analysis conducted to determine which amendments are required and at what rate, such as pounds per 1,000 sq-ft.
- 2. How do you correct a high pH level in soil?
The addition of elementary sulfur will reduce a high pH level, however the overall process time may take several years depending on how high the pH level is and the buffer pH. Ammonia sulfate can speed up the process, but it is still a slow process.
- 3. How do you correct a low pH level in soil?
The addition of limestone or lime, however the amount is dependent on the results of the analysis and size of the lawn.
- 4. Can amendments be added anytime during the year?
Limestone or lime and other nutrient amendments can be added at any time during the year, but sulfur should be applied during the spring or during the fall months.
- 1. When is the best time to apply compost to my lawn?
Compost can be applied at any time of the year; we have top-dressed lawns in the spring, summer and fall. Typically compost topdressing is done in conjunction with a lawn aeration.
- 2. What is compost?
Compost is the product of the controlled decomposition of organic matter that has been stabilized through the generation of heat and stabilized to the point that is beneficial to plant growth. Compost has the unique ability to improve the physical and biological characteristics of soils or growing media. Compost contains plant nutrients but it is not characterized as a fertilizer.
- 3. How much compost can be applied in a single application?
In an existing lawn, a layer not to exceed ½ inch is preferred as this will not smother the existing grass plants. For a new installation of a lawn where soil grading is necessary, a full 1 inch of compost is desired to be pulverized into the soil.
- 1. How often should I aerate my lawn?
Lawns greatly benefit from an annual aeration; however, you could aerate twice per year.
- 2. When is the best time to aerate?
For cool season grass varieties, such as bluegrass and fescue, the fall is the most preferred time of the year to aerate a lawn, beginning in early September all the way up until the ground freezes. In the spring, prior to a pre-emergent application, is another excellent time of year to aerate. You want to avoid any other times of the year as the holes created by an aerator will break down a pre-emergent barrier, applied in early spring, allowing weeds to germinate. As for warm season grass varieties such as zoysia or bermuda grass, June is the ideal time to aerate a lawn as this is the peak growing time of the year for these type of grasses.
- 3. Do I need to mow my lawn prior to my lawn being aerated?
Traditional aerators use the weight of the machine for down pressure, approximately 200-300lbs and by cutting your lawn prior to aeration helps somewhat in removing that additional resistance. At TurfGator we use aerators with 1200lbs of hydraulic down pressure, so cutting your lawn prior to an aeration is not necessary.
- 4. How long does it take for the core plugs to go away after my lawn being aerated?
Typically they will decompose in a week or two and there is no need to rake or remove them from your lawn, it is actually recommended to not remove them.
- 5. Does aeration control thatch?
Yes, aeration is actually the preferred method of control thatch and is less destructive to grass plant root systems over a typical dethatcher.
- 6. What is the difference between an aerator that pulls cores up and one that just punches holes in the ground?
One of the primary goals of aeration is to relieve compaction in your lawn. A core aerator does this by pulling out a core in the ground. A machine that punches holes in the ground, such as a spike aerator, actually adds more compression instead of relieving compaction.
- 7. Why is it necessary to aerate a lawn?
Turf grasses growing in our area benefit greatly from annual aeration during the fall months to reduce thatch buildup and more importantly, relieve soil compaction. This service will help improve the recycling flow of air, water, and nutrients to the root system. This, in turn, will help to rejuvenate your grass by allowing the roots to grow deeper, creating healthier grass plants and keeping your lawn thicker and greener. An annual aeration is the single most important thing you can do to your lawn.
- 8. Can I mow my lawn immediately after it was just seeded?
Yes! Mowing, even with commercial mowers, does not have enough vacuum to lift seeds and re-spread them in your yard. Unless the ground was completely bare a mower should not have an effect on seeds and if an area was completely bare there would be no reason to mow it anyway. Depending on the variety of grass seeds that were planted, seed germination will take anywhere from 10 – 21 days and during this time frame, mowing should be done carefully as new grass plants can easily be uprooted with tires from mowers while turning, especially with riding mowers and zero turn mowers.
- 9. What is the difference between slit seeding and overseeding?
In general grass seeds will not germinate until they are below the surface of the ground and have enough moisture. Overseeding is a process of using a broadcast spreader to apply grass seed on the surface of the ground. To increase the percentage of germination, we recommend in conjunction with our aeration service. The cores created by aeration allow the seeds to drop below the surface of the ground for a better rate of germination. Slit seeding is a process of utilizing a machine with knife blades to create slits in your lawn, which allows grass seed to drop below the surface of the ground, maximizing the percentage of germination. As a general rule, if your lawn is at least 80% thick the process of aerating and overseeding is a good choice; any percentage less, slit seeding is a better choice. We have experienced lawns that were 50% thick and have undergone the process of overseeding each year and it has taken 3 years to completely fill in, but other lawns that were slit seeded only once and have completely filled in within the first year.
- 10. How long does it take for the grass seed to grow?
Once the grass seed has made it below the surface of the ground and has enough continuous moisture it will take 10-14 days for fescue and up to 21 days for bluegrass to germinate and show signs of growth. The grass plant will take additional weeks to mature and fill in. During the first couple of months you want the ground to remain moist from natural rainfall or irrigation. Depending on your lawns condition of sun, shade, flat or hilly and even soil conditions this may be the difference of watering daily or every few days.
- 11. When is the best time of the year to seed a lawn?
Seeding can be done throughout the year as long as the ground is not frozen, but the most optimum time of year is between September 1st and October 15th for our local area. Weather conditions and ground temperatures all play a role in successful seed germination.
- 12. Can I seed myself after you aerate my lawn?
Yes, many homeowners prefer to seed themselves. It is always best to communicate this with our office if you are on our lawn care program due to weed control products that will hamper the germination process. In general, it is best not to use weed control herbicides for at least 30 days after seeding or until the newly seeded areas have been mowed at least 3 times. When you contract seeding services with TurfGator, we coordinate both the seeding and lawn care treatments for you for the best results.
- 13. When can weed control products be used before or after seeding?
Weed control herbicides can be used prior to seeding, but it is best to wait until the third mowing before using herbicides after seeding has been done.
- 14. What are the pros and cons of applying straw over seeded areas?
The pros are straw helps control evaporation in shading the sun’s rays and can somewhat help in erosion control. The cons are straw bales are filled with weed seeds and quite often the next spring you can have some unwanted wheat growing within your lawn, also straw doesn't hold up to high winds or heavy rain very well. An alternative is straw blankets which contain no weed seeds and are woven in a biodegradable nylon net which provide excellent erosion control while helping the ground stay shaded controlling evaporation. Peat Moss is another excellent option for smaller areas. Peat Moss retains water and is organic matter so when it breaks down it will be adding nutrients to the soil, however it will not provide any erosion control.
- 15. How often do I need to water newly seeded areas?
Depending on your lawns condition of sun, shade, flat or hilly and even soil conditions watering may be required multiple times per day to once per day. The most important thing is to keep the soil moist which will help in germination and growth of the new grass plant. For more details on watering newly seeded areas, please see our blog post on "taking care of a newly seeded lawn".
- 16. I am planning on seeding my lawn in the spring; can the pre-emergent still be applied during the early spring or spring lawn care treatment?
No, pre-emergent prevents seeds from germinating so if you are planning on seeding, a standard fertilizer blend will need to be substituted in the early spring instead.
- 17. Is there anything special that I should be aware of for a newly seeded area?
Besides the importance of watering, avoid heavy foot and pet traffic on seeded areas. Also newly germinated grass plants don't have a strong rooting so avoid trimming with weed eaters as they will up root the grass plant very easily. Depending on the variety of grass seeds that were planted, seed germination will take anywhere from 10 – 21 days and during this time frame mowing should be done carefully as new grass plants can easily be uprooted with tires from mowers while turning, especially with riding mowers and zero turn mowers.
- 18. What if the seed doesn't germinate before winter sets in?
Any seed germination or growth that hasn't matured before winter sets in will pick up in the spring when the ground temperatures are warm enough. A general rule is if your lawn was seeded in the fall it should be completely germinated and matured by the end of the following May.
- 1. Do you have a referral program?
Yes, please ask our sales departments on information on our customer referral program.
- 2. How will I be billed?
After each service is performed, a detailed invoice will be left at the front door explaining the service that was performed with a remit slip for making a payment.
- 3. Is payment due after each treatment or after each month?
All payments are due upon receipt.
- 4. Can I pay my bill through the website?
- 5. Do you accept credit cards?
We accept the following major credit cards, Visa, MasterCard, and Discover.
- 6. Do you have an installment plan?
Yes, we offer custom installment plans as a convenience to spread equal payments over multiple months.
- 7. Do you charge for service calls?
We provide free service calls for customers who receive our complete program. Example: if a customer takes our lawn care program which consist of 7 treatments and calls for a service call between applications we would provide a free service call. However, if a customer skips a treatment and calls for a service call, charges may apply.
- 8. Do you charge for estimates or lawn analysis?
Estimates and lawn evaluations are always free.
- 9. Will you call me before you come out?
For customers that request notification prior to any service performed, yes we can provide that as a courtesy. We prefer to send an email notification, but can call if requested. For customers with gates or pets left outside it is our standard procedure to send a notification prior to any service performed regardless.
- 10. What time will you be out?
While it is difficult to schedule exact appointment times for most service treatments, we can provide general time frames such as early morning, late morning, etc.
- 11. Do I need to be home?
No, you do not need to be home for our Lawn Care Services, but if you have a request or a particular concern, feel free to call our office, send us an email or leave us a note on the back of your remit slip. As for some of our Pest Control Services, you will need to be home, as our technicians may need to enter your home, dependent on the service performed.
- 12. What happens if it rains on my scheduled treatment date?
If we called you the day before letting you know that we would be out for a service treatment and it rains prior to our visit, you will then be scheduled for the following day. If it should rain following a service visit the same day, most of the herbicide products we use are rain-fast within an hour, but in cases where we are caught in the rain, we will apply additional weed control if needed on a dryer day. We just ask you allow 10 days to see if this is needed and give us a call if it is.
- 13. Do I need to renew my services from year-to-year?
Service will continue from year-to-year, unless we hear from you otherwise. If you should ever want to change services performed or cancel service, please call our office or send us an email as we will need to update our records accordingly.
- 14. Do you offer any discounts if I pre-pay for my services for the entire year?
Yes, if services are prepaid we offer a discount of 5% - 10% depending on the time of the year. We also offer the option to setup auto-pay after services are performed which provides a 5% discount.
- 15. Is your company insured?
Yes, we are completely insured and if the unexpected should occur while performing any service offered at your property our insurance covers all incidents.
- 16. Is your company accredited by the Better Business Bureau?
- 17. Are your technicians licensed?
Yes, all of our technicians are licensed by the State of Illinois, Department of Agriculture.
- 18. How long has TurfGator been in business?
The company was started in 2009 and has been growing ever since.